The Best and Worst Moments of South East Asia

It's difficult to summarise my travelling in one post as so much happened and I experienced a lot of incredible things. However, travelling isn't just one big happy holiday, there are times where all you want to do is go home. I think it takes a particular type of person to withstand the challenges of long term travel, and I can 100% say that I am not the type. Since returning, I can honestly say that not once have I wanted to return at this moment in time. I certainly miss my adventures and am so happy I went but in all honesty, my life and home is here. I have my future career here, which isn't available abroad, so I'm grateful to have travelled but thankful that it only lasted 4 months.

So, as I experienced many highs but equally many lows, here are my best and worst travel moments!

BEST: Going to a Cat Cafe in Bangkok

This is an experience I have always wanted to do, and I finally ticked it off my bucket list in Bangkok. Just down the road from the MBK shopping centre is a really cool cat cafe! You can go in a have food and drink, whilst playing with the cats. We were lucky to have our own sat on our table which we could brush!

WORST: Turning up to our Koh Tao hostel

After enduring an 8-hour overnight bus and boat journey, the only thing on our minds was a nice shower and a clean room. Our hostel turned out to have anything but these things. The shower was absolutely disgusting and full of spiders (my biggest fear), and the rooms were so tiny that you could hardly move. The mattresses were like A&E plastic mats, and there were only two showers between the whole hostel. TWO!! Not only that, but because we had arrived at 9am, we had to wait until 2pm to check in after being up pretty much the entire night. Not about that travel life.

Around 5am in the morning, catching the boat to Koh Tao

BEST: Winning bowling whilst drunk in Laos

In Luang Prabang, there is not much nightlife. The main bar that every backpacker goes to closes at 11.15pm, so instead of going to bed, everyone goes... bowling! Yep, the bowling alley is open to 2am and serves alcohol, which means you can get drunk and bowl at the same time. Who knew that I was so good at bowling whilst being intoxicated?

WORST: Contracting a nasty virus in Bali

On our last day in Bali, I caught a horrible virus that left me feeling sick, faint, and incredibly tired. Not only that, but I also had to get up at 5am the next morning for what was the longest ferry journey to Lombok (which also doesn't have a proper hospital). I have never felt as ill as I have, and luckily it only lingered for about a week. My other side effects included puffy eyes, loss of appetite, swollen tonsils and my lymph nodes in my groin were tender and painful for about a week after. I thought I had contracted malaria! Thank god it didn't get any worse.

BEST: Tubing on the Mekong River

Whether you like it or not, everyone mainly visits Vang Vieng in Laos to go tubing, which is basically drinking in a rubber ring whilst floating down a river. You can stop off at bars along the way to grab some drinks. It might sound dangerous, but it is actually a lot of fun! At one point, I was very tipsy and the current was so strong that I was clinging on for dear life to a wooden pole whilst trying to hold on to my friends. The water wasn't deep so your chances of drowning are pretty slim, and as long as you are a sensible drinker, it can be a very fun experience!

WORST: Taking a hungover flight to Hue

Somehow we decided it would be a good idea to get way too drunk in Hanoi the night before our flight to Hue. This resulted in us meeting a friendly Vietnamese/American in a bar where he proceeded to buy us a lot of drinks, then dancing with some Americans in a club and trying the local delicacy of fried chicken feet, kindly offered to us by a lovely Vietnamese couple. It's safe to say that I woke up feeling pretty rough (and still drunk) the next morning. Throw a flight into the mix and you have the world's worst hangover. That's a day I never want to relive ever again.

My new Vietnamese friend

BEST: Watching Beauty and the Beast and eating Domino's in Hanoi

By this point, I was over half way into my travels and it had been a long time since I had tried any western food or visited a western style mall. I was also desperate to see Beauty and the Beast, so we hopped in a cab to take us to the nearest mall. Oh boy, this mall was so clean and shiny, which is exactly what I needed. We had Domino's pizza which is expensive for Vietnamese standards, but cheap for the UK. After, we went to the nicest cinema so I could finally get my Disney fix. I wouldn't have changed that day for anything.

WORST: Being on a bus that hit a motorcyclist in Ho Chi Minh

Whilst on our way to the Cu Chi tunnels, our crazy bus driver hit a motorcyclist off his bike whilst turning. My friend Charlotte was sitting by the window and saw the whole thing, and when I looked, all I could see was the man lying in a pool of blood on the floor with one leg at a right angle. Luckily there were two doctors on our bus who immediately went to help him. Another lucky scenario was the fact that we were close to a hospital. The paramedics turned up in what I can only describe as a trailer type ambulance, and the man was treated. It was scary stuff, and I'm confident that he had only broken his leg and cut his head. Vietnam is notorious for dangerous moped drivers, but when you are personally involved in a crash, that's when you realise just how much of an issue it is. The worst part? Our poor tour guide who had been flung into the windscreen during the collision then had to carry on leading our tour. Poor him!

BEST: Our day tour of Lombok from the locals

Lombok is a very quiet yet beautiful island. The best way to see it is to hire a guide for the day to take you to the main sites like the Tiu Kelep waterfall.  Our guide drove us around and let us experience the true Lombok. We were accompanied by his trainee (Apenkz) who was only 17 and really interested in improving his English. They drove us everywhere and our tour lasted the entire day. At the end, they took us to a secluded beach so we could watch the sunset, and it was here that I truly experienced the peace and tranquillity of Lombok. They also bought us some Ramadan local street food that most tourists don't get to try. It was delicious and is only available during Ramadan, so we really experienced the local way of life. It was one of my favourite days and the best thing is that I still have Apenkz on facebook, so can keep in contact with him!

Lombok Sunset

WORST: Bus journey to Pai

If you get motion sickness, you may want to prepare yourself for the bus journey from Chiang Mai to Pai. It has 762 turns, which resulted in the windiest bus journey of my entire life. Couple that with the fact that we were crammed into the back with very little leg room, and you have the journey from hell. The couple in front of us unfortunately couldn't handle the turns and suffered from motion sickness, which led to the rest of our journey smelling like vomit. Oh, there's also no way back other than the way you came, so you have to endure the same journey again. This time, I was sitting near the front and literally got flung from me seat whilst wearing a seat belt. Not for the faint hearted!

Has Travelling Changed Me?

It is often preconceived that once you go travelling, it changes who you are.

This is true to a certain extent but some people think this change is a bad thing. This is not necessarily true. Without a doubt, travelling to completely new place, meeting the local people and trying new things will change you. However, since returning home from 4 months in South East Asia, I don't believe I have changed, rather my perspective has.

Naturally, seeing poverty for yourself and not just on some daytime TV ad is a real learning experience. Trying to understand the history of the countries I have visited is fascinating. 

Sometimes, learning about a countries past can affect you. Whilst I was in Cambodia, I was reading a book called 'Cambodia's Curse' by Joel Brinkley, and I was shocked about how little I knew surrounding the tragic history of this country. For those who don't know, Cambodia experienced it's own genocide not too long ago. The Khmer Rouge killed up to 2 million Cambodians through labour camps and mass executions. Learning about the dark history was horrifying, and after that day I realised how incredibly lucky I am to be living in a society where my human rights are not taken away from me. Now, I try and look at life in a different way, and appreciate how lucky I am to live in a country with so many opportunities.

Even looking at the local workers in countries such as Indonesia makes me realise how thankful I am to have access to a world-renowned education system, where my level of education doesn't depend on the amount of money my family has, and my career choices are numerous.

So of course, experiences like that can change your perspective. 

In fact I am grateful to have had the opportunity to realise that I was taking life for granted.

I think travelling also prevents me from becoming narrow-minded. It is so easy to become so comfortable living in your small town, with your small group friends and the same routine. Travelling makes me realise that there is a big wide world out there, which is so different from the life I live and has so many opportunities.

Have you ever considered doing a working visa in Australia or New Zealand? Or how about looking for a job in Ho Chi Minh? There is no written rule saying you have to live your entire life in the country you were born. There is so much more to life than finding a partner, getting married and having a baby, something I often feel pressured to do at home.

I am more open-minded after travelling. I realise how nice it is to have a clean, western toilet or my own bed. How comforting a decent cup of tea can be. How there's more to life than going on holiday to get drunk when you can talk to the locals, find out about their religion and their traditions.

As for family and friends, I don't think I have changed around them. I have met so many people whilst in Asia, but I can still go back to my hometown friends and be exactly the same as I was before. Travelling doesn't change your personality. It just means I have more stories to tell over a bottle of wine.

On a final note, I do think I have become much more of an interesting person. I now have friends based all around the world (thank you facebook), and I also have so many stories to tell which is definitely a positive thing. If I met someone who had travelled the world, that's automatically something different about them that I would love to know more about.

The next time you meet someone who has travelled, listen to their stories. You might just be inspired to travel yourself. That's all for now.

The Best Hostels in South East Asia

I stayed in many hostels during my time in Asia, some good, some bad. There were a few that really stood out for me, so much so that I'd recommend them to anyone. Here is a summary of my favourite hostels!

Suneta Hostel KhaoSan, Bangkok

Our first few nights in Bangkok were pre-booked before we left, which is always a good idea when you are travelling to a completely foreign country for the first time. This hostel was situated just a five-minute walk from Khao San road, which was perfect and right in the heart of the backpacker district. Word of advice, do not stay actually on Khao San road. It's loud, sleazy and not very pleasant.

This hostel was cheap but still really nice. The rooms were spacious even though there were a large number of beds, and they each had a curtain for extra privacy. The toilets are really well maintained, with shampoo and shower gel provided. Even though there were only two showers, there was never a queue. A hairdryer is also provided, which is a luxury whilst travelling!

Breakfast was included which was nice, and was served till 11am giving us the opportunity to lay in to try and combat the jet lag. Free tea and coffee can be made throughout the day. There is also a small social area, but was a little unsocial.

Thai Thai Hostel, Chiang Mai

I have so much love for this little hostel. The staff were incredibly friendly and happy to help you with any query you may have. Breakfast was included which was simple but is a nice added touch. I actually had one of the best sleep at this hostel. The beds aren't anything special, but it was super clean and had such a tranquil atmosphere. The bathrooms were spotless, and there's also a rooftop terrace which was great for catching the sunset. Also on the second floor is a little sofa with a TV that you can use to watch Netflix.

The hostel isn't centrally located, but it is still near the center and taxi's are so cheap that it was never an issue. In the foyer they have loads of leaflets for all the activities that you can do in Chiang Mai (such as the elephant camp and cooking classes), and most of these will offer to pick you up from the hostel.

Slumber Party Hostel, Krabi

Warning, this is a party hostel! Do not go here if you are not that type of person. When we first arrived, the bar crawl was scheduled for that night. A (small) plate of food was also provided which is great for backpackers on a budget! For the bar crawl, you simply buy a t-shirt (for 600 baht when we were there) and join everyone downstairs at the bar for buckets and drinking games! It is so much fun and a great way to meet people. They will even offer a free taxi ride to the first bar. The rooms are clean and the beds are like the capsule form, which offers complete privacy. You will even get shots poured down your throat whilst you're getting ready! Don't say I didn't warn you!

Freedom Hostel, Hue

This hostel offered a family dinner, which is another great way to meet fellow travelers, and really learn about the Vietnamese culture and food. It cost cheaper than eating out would (which is still really cheap) and gave me a chance to try new food. Breakfast is included and the toilets/rooms are also to a high standard. A curtain can be pulled across on all beds, and the location is within walking distance of the bridge.

Family Dinner

One Stop Hostel, Siem Reap

Ah... One Stop! Having ended up with 6 nights to spend in Siem Reap, we booked the first two here. This place ended up being one of my favourites out of the entire trip! It had such a calm, relaxing atmosphere and was in the perfect location. It is situated literally across the road from Pub Street, and at only £5 a night, is so worth it! The staff are so friendly (as are all Cambodians) and the place is perfect to get a good nights sleep before a 4am wake-up call to explore Angkor Wat. Breakfast can be purchased here for so cheap and they do the most amazing pancakes! There is also a TV to watch a film from their huge selection. They have another chill-out area on the second floor, and then a rooftop garden at the top. The toilets are big and include shampoo, shower gel and hairdryers, and there was always one available.

Fave Hotel, Bali

I stayed here for my birthday as we wanted something a little nicer than a hostel. For only £6 a night, we had a basic hotel room which was far from basic! The bathroom was incredible! It is so nice to have a hot shower for once.
They also threw in free bottled water, toothbrushes and slippers. There is a buffet breakfast with an egg station, so you can order your eggs how you like it, as well as unlimited choice of traditional Indonesian food. There is also a swimming pool, although it's sort of inside so there is no sunbathing area. The staff were so sweet to me and would not stop wishing me a happy birthday. They also brought out surprise birthday pancakes (with cheese on the top?) which was amazing. Location-wise, it is very close to Seminyak but you would need a taxi to get to Kuta.

Swimming Pool

Rumah Roso Homestay, Yogyakarta

Yogyakarta is a place that not many travelers go to (post about why that shouldn't be the case coming soon) so there aren't many hostels, but there are loads of guesthouses. This one is situated within walking distance of the Sultan's palace, and also close to the road where you can find the backpacker bars. On our first night here, we got talking to the owner who was so helpful and offered to take us to the nearby temple called Borobudur. Us being the careful travelers that we are immediately thought this would come at a hefty price, but it worked out way cheaper for us and gave us the opportunity to see the countryside surrounding Yogyakarta. The city is one of the cheapest places I've ever visited, probably because there aren't many tourists around, so sleeping and eating within budget is easy here. Every single member of staff here are incredibly helpful and friendly, whether you want to ask for directions of get them to call you a Go-Jek (Indonesian Uber). Laundry is super cheap here and the rooms were perfect. A traditional Javanese breakfast is included to!

Mai Chau Hostel Lounge, Vietnam

If you go a little off the beaten track, make sure you visit Mai Chau. This place is the Vietnamese countryside. Think rice fields, mountains and very little tourism. For these reasons, this is the perfect escape. Most tourists stay in the lac villages in homestays, where you stay with a local family who will cook for you and give you a true Vietnam experience. We stayed at the Mai Chau hostel, although it isn't really a hostel. The beds consist of a mattress on the floor with a mosquito net, but that is all you need. The dorms are very open, so be prepared to be awoken at 5am to the sound of cockerels. Nevertheless, this place is clean and extremely friendly. The food cooked by the family is absolutely delicious, I recommend trying the pork fried rice and the wood fired pizza. Breakfast is also included. Bikes can be rented here which is the best way to get around Mai Chau. If you're looking for an escape from the big cities and tourist destination, you will most definitely find it here.

Discovering South East Asian Food

Having just returned from spending four months in South East Asia, I was thinking of all the things I miss, and the top one has to be the food.

Food is a big part of Asian culture. It brings together family and involves tradition and religion. You will find it everywhere in any country, with one ingredient playing a big part everywhere, and that is rice. I have never consumed as much rice as I have in those four months.

This is obviously because rice is grown on a mass scale there. No matter where you go, you will come across rice paddies and farmers sowing the grains. Vietnam and Thailand are some of the biggest rice exporters, so it's a cheap, staple ingredient.

Something that will always be on the menu- fried rice

Following shortly behind as a main ingredient is noodles, which can be served in a variety of ways such as fried or boiled.

Even though the ingredients found in each country are similar, I still found that each country had very different cuisines. Part of the fun in travelling is exploring and trying new foods. In this blog post, I am going to share with you some of my favourite dishes I discovered.

Thailand

Khao Soi

This was my first country and a very well-known cuisine. You will find Thai restaurants everywhere, as well as many ingredients within supermarkets. Aside from the famous Thai green curry and Pad Thai noodles, I discovered a delicious dish in Chiang Mai, called Khao Soi.

Sort of like a creamy curry/soup, this dish is mild in spiciness and so tasty. It features boiled egg noodles and usually some form of meat, like chicken, in a fragrant curry, similar to massaman or yellow curry. It is finished off with crispy egg noodles garnished on top. This contains more coconut milk to give it the creamy, mild taste which is nice if, like me you are not a fan of too much spice. I actually made Khao Soi in a cooking class, which features in the picture below!

Baked Pineapple Rice

Not specific to Thailand but I first tried this in Koh Samui. Basically it is half a pineapple with the flesh scooped out, and then the rice mixed with pineapple chunks, various vegetables and spices are baked in the pineapple. Most people would think pineapple would not go with rice, but it does and it works!

Banana Pancakes

Again, found everywhere in Asia but this consists of a fried, roti-style pancake with banana slices sandwiched in the middle, then drizzled with chocolate and condensed milk. I have to say, they don't beat English or American style pancakes but it was nice to try something different for dessert, and you will find pancake food vendors on almost every main street.

Street Pad Thai

Laos

Laap

This is considered the national dish and is simply made up of minced meat (I had chicken) cooked with assorted vegetables, bean sprouts and spices. It is served with sticky rice which was served to me in the traditional basket, along with a side salad. Although basic, this dish is still very tasty and is usually served at room temperature.

Vietnam

Pho

Not my first time trying this but I loved how simple and delicious pho is. Usually eaten for breakfast, it is basically noodle soup with any choice of meat. I went for chicken but pho can be found almost everywhere in Vietnam.

Banh mi

I tried my first banh mi in Hanoi, and I was blown away by the one I had from Banh My P restaurant. It is basically a sandwich using baguette bread. I opted for just an egg one, and at only 15,000 dong (less than £1), it was so tasty! Most come with salad but this particular one had various sauces that I had no idea what they were, almost like a coleslaw and the bread was so crusty that it was amazing! Banh mi can be found everywhere in Vietnam and come in many varieties, including pork, chicken and even liver pate.

Vietnamese Coffee

My love for Asian coffee began in Vietnam. I have such a sweet tooth for sweet coffee, and all Asian coffee is mixed with sweetened condensed milk. This is heaven for a coffee drinker like myself and is best served over ice, perfect for cooling down from the Asian heat! Vietnamese is strong and very flavoursome. The photo below is just an ordinary iced coffee, but usually the coffee drips down into the cup from a French drip filter.

Egg Coffee

Sounds strange but something that had to be tried. Vietnamese coffee is very strong and usually is mixed with condensed milk. This one however, is mixed with raw egg and sugar, which forms a thick, silky layer on the top. Sounds disgusting right? It was strange to drink at first, but was still tasty. It took me a while to get over the fact that I was drinking raw eggs, and I'm not sure I would opt for it in the future but nevertheless, it is still something you have to try.

Cau Lau

Found mainly in Hoi An, this dish consists of noodles, pork slices and local greens. It is simple, filling and very flavoursome.

Mi Quang

Found in Hoi An as well, this dish is made up of noodles in a broth with pork, shrimp, vegetables and added extras like a hard boiled egg, peanuts and crackers.

Cambodia

Fish Amok

A creamy, mild curry served with rice. This Cambodian dish is very popular and one of the tastiest curries I've ever tried. I loved it so much I had it almost every night! It consists of similar ingredients to most curries, with a lot of coconut cream and uses fresh local fish. I learnt to cook this at a cookery school in Siem Reap (Le Tigre de Papier- highly recommended) and it is usually served in a banana leaf.

Mango and Carrot Salad

Not specific to Cambodia but it was another dish I learnt to make at the cooking school. It is so simple to prepare and only consists of shredded mango and carrot drizzled in a spicy dressing. Simply, healthy and delicious.

Mango Sticky Rice

You're probably more likely to find this in Thailand but this was the dessert I learnt to cook in Cambodia. It seems strange pairing rice with mango, but it works. The glutinous rice is cooked in coconut milk, then sugar is added and it is served with sliced mango. It makes the perfect dessert.

Indonesia

Gado Gado

Oh my, this may be my favourite dish from the entire trip. Not very well known over here, Gado Gado is an Indonesian salad. It is so simple and uses cucumber, blanched cabbage and beansprouts, tomatoes, hard boiled eggs, fried tofu and is sometimes served with rice. What makes it so special is the peanut sauce. I don't know how they make it, but it is wonderful and smothered on top of the vegetables. Seriously, this is a must eat if you are ever in Indonesia!


Satay

Ok, so this can also be found across most of asia, but it consists of chicken/pork/tofu on a stick which you dip into peanut sauce.

Ramadan street food

Whilst on a tour in Lombok, our local guides gave us some street food that is only eaten during Ramadan and by the locals. Food stalls are set up close to sunset where the locals will buy food to eat after fasting has finished. We tried local fried fish on skewers which was marinated in a spicy coating. We also tried a sort of salad along with rice that was essentially compacted into a cone shape. My word, this salad was incredibly spicy but was so good at the same time! You eat it with your hands and the different flavours and textures were amazing, but my mouth was on fire at the end! Not for the faint hearted!

Singapore

Kaya Toast

A Singaporean staple breakfast! I discovered this from my guide book and this is consumed by the locals in the morning. It is basically two pieces of thin toast with kaya jam (made from coconut and eggs) and butter in the middle. For the full experience, you can order it with two soft boiled eggs with the addition of white pepper and soy sauce. The bread is then used to mop up the eggs, although I haven't tried this. It is usually served alongside a cup of kopi, which itself is amazing and is almost chocolatey!

Malaysia

Nasi Lemak

A breakfast dish eaten in Malaysia which is made up of rice cooked in coconut milk served with fried chicken, peanuts, a hard boiled egg, fried anchovies and a spicy sambal sauce. I couldn't face eating this for breakfast, so I had it for dinner instead and it was really tasty.

Roti Canai
  
Malaysia's dishes are heavily influenced by the people living there, mainly made up of Malays, Chinese and Indians. This brings a variety of cuisines including a lot of Indian food. A must try is roti flatbread which can be served with a huge array of side dishes. I tried it with a lentil dhal but it can be served with any type of curry. You simply tear off a chunk and dip it into the curry. It doesn't have to savoury either, I tried dipping it into condensed milk which was equally as delicious. Various toppings can be used involving a mixture of savoury and sweet.

An Indian Curry Spread

2016 in pictures: One of the best years of my life

Can you believe another year has passed?!

2016 went by so fast, and I can't believe that 2017 is here already! Last year, I wrote a blog post which summed up 2015 in pictures instead of words. I love looking back at the memories made, so I thought I would do the same for 2016 using pictures I have taken on my phone.

It's a long one, but without further ado, here is my 2016 in pictures...

Raising £250 for Breast Cancer Now by hosting my own charity coffee morning!

Geeky I know but who knew how much self-satisfaction you can get from growing the correct bacteria needed for your dissertation?!

Feeling like a scientist by creating and presenting my project at university

Making it through the cold winter to see sunnier, spring days like this

And witnessing an evening sky like this

Finally handing in my 8000 word research project, yet still having 3 exams to go before the end. So close, yet so far...

Having a cute revision buddy to keep me going... almost there!

Moving back home after 3 years at university

Spending my 21st birthday eating Hummingbird Bakery cupcakes in Portobello Road

And partying in Soho!

More baking!

Cycling through the Kent countryside in preparation for my charity cycle ride

Waking up on Friday 24th June to this news headline

Stopping in a random French village for the best tasting coffee whilst cycling to Paris

Arriving in a drizzly Paris with the view of this statue's bum after cycling over 400 km!

Graduating from university with a BSc in Biomedical Science!

Watching Glastonbury on the big screen and in the sun (and secretly wishing I was there)

Spending many summer evenings with walks along the beach

Returning to a country I love despite the horrific events Turkey has suffered in 2016

Taking a mud bath in Turkey

Seeing a natural wonder of the world at Pamukkale

Taking this photo (my favourite photo and memory in the world)

Dancing the night away to live country music in Nashville

Watching the sun set over the Memphis skyline

Wandering through the city that was one of the homes of Rock n Roll

Staying in this hostel (yes it really is a hostel!)

Waking up somewhere in Utah/Arizona to this view!

Coming close to a tarantula (my biggest fear)

Walking through our Vegas hotel hungover and in our robes

Wandering around the Las Vegas hotels in awe

Fulfilling a lifelong dream of going to LA

Taking a spontaneous trip to San Fran

Escaping reality at the happiest place on earth

Flying (literally) over the Grand Canyon

Getting festive!

Drinking copious amounts of mulled wine

Seeing this view of Oxford Street from a rooftop bar

Couldn't resist adding a picture of a London skyline

Seeing in person the famous stairs in the Spice Girls 'Wannabe' music video

2016 was actually a really good year for me, despite what everyone thinks of the year! I think life is what you make it (Hannah Montana quote right there), and you can choose to look back on 2016 as the worst year of your life, but what are you taking away from that outlook?

Take the negatives, embrace them and learn for the future. Even though terrible things may have happened, to the world or personally, remember you are never alone in this world which can make such a huge difference when coping with difficult periods of your life.
If you have an optimistic view on life, you will always see the good things which in my opinion, is what makes life so god damn special. If you can appreciate what you've got then life becomes amazing and worth living! So to end, stop comparing yourself to others, recognise the important people in your life and most importantly, make sure you enjoy the life you are living!

I wish you a happy and healthy new year!

Love, Charlotte x